Tippmann A-5 Stealth Schematics English. Tippmann C3 Manual English. Tippmann C3 Schematics English. Tippmann Carver One Manual English. Tippmann Cronus English. Tippmann Cronus Exploded View English. Tippmann Crossover English. Tippmann Factory Fully Automatic English. Tippmann Model 98 Manual English.
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Tippmann Raider English. Tippmann Stormer Marker Manual English. Tippmann Stryker English. Tippmann TMC. When cleaning old broken paint or gunk from the breach or hammer channel, take a damp rag and wipe off the front bolt, hammer, and the channels where they slide back and forth.
After they are dry, apply paintball oil or grease to the locations you just wiped down. Make sure to put a little oil on the bolt and hammer o-rings to help prolong their life. I like to use Dow33 grease for the main friction points on the bolt bodies as it provides long term lubrication compared to the oil, but you still want to use synthetic paintball oil on the o-rings themselves.
Lets go over how to disassemble the Tippmann 98 Custom Valve. Disassembly is still the same. My o-rings are different colors as they are part of my master o-ring kit from Flask Paintball. You can pick up some by clicking here to go to their EBay shop.
This is primarily due to the spiral retaining ring. There are tools to assist in the removal and installation of the retaining rings, but it can be done with a sturdy o-ring pick or small flat screwdriver. I highly recommend placing it in a vice to hold the valve still. No need to apply a lot of pressure and put some cushion to prevent damage. Start by simultaneously pressing down on the brass portion, depressing it into the valve and prying the retaining ring loose.
Once you have the retaining ring is removed, you can then remove the valve internals and inspect the o-rings. Inspect the front valve seat and cup seal for damage. When putting everything back in the valve, place the o-ring first and then insert the front valve seat firmly in place with a dowel or middle of a barrel swab.
Then lightly oil and insert the rest of the internals. Installing the retaining ring can be just as much of a pain as taking it out. Start by spreading out the ring, pressing the brass valve plug into the valve and inserting the ring around the inner groove.
Once it is in, you are all set! Reassembly is exactly the reverse of disassembly. Make sure the ball detent is placed correctly and all the pins are in the correct locations. Tip: The main things that will get in your way when putting the halves back together are going to be the trigger guard, ASA screw assembly, and rear sight. Some other things you can do to help prolong the life of the marker is put about 5 drops of oil into the ASA, air it up and shoot it a few times.
This will put some lubrication into the valve lubricating the internal o-rings. The mods that I have found to be most effective are polishing the internals, lightening the trigger spring, and eliminating hopper wobble. Polishing the internals can be a pain but will prolong the life of the internal parts. The older 98 customs have some excess over-spray from the outside in the hammer and front bolt channels.
This can cause excessive wear on the moving parts. I have found that the best way to clean out the over-spray is with a small rotary buffing tool like a Dremel with a buffing wheel and buffing compound. You can do it by hand with sandpaper too, start off with to grit paper and polish it off with grit for best results.
The locations you will want to focus on are the front bolt channel, hammer channel, linking arm channel, and the trigger grouping face where all the trigger pins are.
The last time I did it with a buffing tool, it took me a good hour or so to get both halves cleaned out to my liking. One of my halves after a few years of play and some DOW 33 still on it:. The trigger return spring on the stock markers are quite stiff. This is a quick fix, just take a clicky pin and take out the spring, cut to size and replace the stock spring.
Super easy to do and costs you one pen. The way to eliminate hopper wobble is to wrap an o-ring around the feedneck base, adding extra material between the body and the feedneck. To do this, just wrap a regular tank o-ring or similar sized around the base of your feedneck as shown below. To remove your feedneck, just unlatch it by pressing down on the front sight and pulling the feedneck back towards the trigger. Take your o-ring and wrap it around the bottom of the feed neck where the pins are at, stretching the o-ring and stopping just below where the paint feeds.
This will put more pressure between your feed neck and the body and will not let the hopper wobble at all. Sometimes if you are low on paint, the balls in the feedneck will blow back up in the feedneck after each shot. This is caused by the residual air slipping past the bolt and shooting up the feedneck. This popcorn effect can be reduced by simply drilling a few holes in the back of the feedneck.
This allows the air to escape out the holes rather than forcing its way up and out through the hopper. You may need to increase the velocity if switching from CO2 to HPA, but the marker will function exactly the same.
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