Install tubs




















Check that the drain hole in the bottom of the tub lines up with the P-trap in the floor underneath the tub.

Ensure you have the right fittings to connect the water supply lines to the faucet you purchased, as well. Use caution to prevent scratches or other damage to your new tub! Install a ledger board. Measure the height of the lip, or flange, of the tub, then mark that height measurement on the back wall. Use a drill to screw the ledger board to the studs in the wall so that the top of the ledger board is just below the flange when the tub is sitting level in the alcove. Attach the drain to the tub.

Before you actually set the tub in place, secure the drain to it. Place a gasket around the strainer from the outside of the bottom of the tub, then screw the strainer to the drain chute, which a long pipe that includes the overflow drain. Connect the overflow drain.

Slip the trip lever stopper and linkage through the overflow drain opening on the inside of the tub. Use a screwdriver to secure the overflow cover with the trip lever to the inside of the tub.

The stopper and linkage go inside the pipe to stop or allow the flow of water. The overflow drain will prevent the tub from overflowing if you leave the water running as it directs the water into a drain pipe.

Part 3. Set the tub in place and level it. Carefully position the tub in the alcove so that the drain rests over the drain opening in the floor. Place a level on each side of the tub. If any spots are uneven, position hardwood shims underneath the tub and glue them in place. Secure the tub to the studs.

There will be a small flange, or vertical lip, around the outside of the tub. In most cases, you can use a hammer to drive roofing nails through the flange to secure it to each stud in the wall. Fit a new tub surround.

The surround is made up of the panels that protect the wall around your tub from moisture and mildew. First, dry-fit the surround and mark the location of the accessories, including the faucet and water handles. Ensure that the faucet will line up with the water lines in the wall.

Then, cut out the accessory openings with a jigsaw. A one-piece surround is the easiest type to install. Caulk the tub to the surround and secure the surround to the studs.

Place a bead of silicone caulk around the entire perimeter of the tub on the ledge next to the flange. Then, carefully set the surround on top of the silicone caulk. Next, use a drill to screw the surround into each wall stud. Aim to use a screw every 6 inches 15 cm up the length of the surround. Connect the water lines and install your accessories. Screw the faucet into the coupling for the water lines through the hole in the surround.

Then, screw the strainer cover over the drain opening in the floor of the tub. Add any other accessories you need, such as handles if they are separate from your faucet. Connect the drain to the P-trap. Thread the drain chute into the P-trap under the tub. Caulk the tub to the floor. Run a bead of silicone caulk along the outside edge of the tub where it meets the floor. Make sure it meets both outside corners to prevent water from getting in between the tub and floor.

Smooth out the bead with your finger or a damp rag. Wait 24 hours before turning on the water. To give the caulk and other adhesives time to dry, wait at least a full day. Then, you can turn on the water and check for leaks. If you find any problems, contact a certified plumber. Yes, I do, cement-board actually.

Never use ANY drywall in any bath. Many manufacturers say skip it and attach or seat directly to the framing. This isn't remotely ideal for humidity containment nor for insulation or sound dampening. You never want framing directly exposed to any future potential water leakage, water always wins.

Not Helpful 6 Helpful I want to put a bath tub in. I live on the 4th floor and currently only have a shower. Can I use the same drainage hole for the bath that is already there for the shower? Not Helpful 1 Helpful 2.

If I'm installing a fiberglass surround bathtub. Do I have to put a cement board behind it? It can be attached directly to the studs. Where the flange is, all around the tub, should be set into the studs the thickness of the flange so the wall board around it will be flat and against the studs everywhere.

Drill the flange for the screws so you do not crack the fiberglass. Doing that will keep the wall along the bath surround flat everywhere. Be sure that those walls are insulated. Also be sure the bottom of the tub is supported with concrete that is mixed with peanut foam. Insulate the rest of the bottom of the tub. Insulation will keep the bath water warmer longer. My wall is six foot wide all the way to the door, how do I turn it to get it out the door? You cut it in half or more.

It's garbage and should be treated as such. It may have been installed before any other fixtures or before there was even a hallway railing or any walls and doors. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 1. Zero, if you mean how close should the tub be to the wall. Otherwise, a minimum of 1 inch if you're talking about a short or half wall running just beyond the tub and enclosing the tub area. If you're tiling and have room to extend the wall into the room, then you may want the tile width or half-width dictate the spacing so that tiling is much easier and better looking.

Not Helpful 3 Helpful 2. Whatever and wherever your instructions say to. Manufacturers that use those things have very specific and finite spots where they must go, using only the exactly specified screws. Not Helpful 6 Helpful 2. I'm replacing my tub, but since I have to bring it in at an angle due to limited space, how do I get it into place? You'll just have to win the wrestling match.

They don't install themselves and no one said it was always easy. You may even have to walk it in literally a millimeter at a time on either end. You can also remove wallboard, doors, door jambs, cabinetry, and toilets. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 6. Drew Hawkins1. If the tub fits easily into the space and the plumbing is already set up, you can install it yourself.

Install a ledger board on the wall, put the tub in place, and make sure it's level. Secure the flanges to the wall studs and fit the tub surround into the space. Caulk the surround and any cracks so the area is sealed. Then, you can connect the water line. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3. Installing a new bathtub is a challenging task that needs to be done correctly so there won't be water damage.

You'll need to be prepared to repair any tiles that are damaged in the process as well. Usually you need one 55 lb of mortar for one tub. Mix the mortar so that it can support the tub. The mortar should be evened out and about 2 inches thick on all sides. Then embed the tub into the mortar. Pre-drill holes in the tub lip. The holes should correspond with the stud locations. Once the tub is level you can attach it to the studs using 2 inch galvanized screws.

Place your foot on the inside edge of the tub to hold it steady while securing one screw in the center of the tub on the main wall. Check the tub is level again on the main wall then transfer your level to the front of the tub. Push the tub down into the mortar to get a level position and secure one screw through the tub lip and into the stud. Do this for the back wall as well. Otherwise you could break the tub lip when you secure it to the stud.

Watch our video to see all the awesome tips. Steve and I wanted this to be the best installation video for an acrylic bathtub. If you want to learn how to install an acrylic bathtub this video and tutorial should help a TON. Thanks for reading, watching and adding your thoughts to the comments. Do ask any questions down below. Question 10 months ago on Step 6. Question 2 years ago. The Kohler installation instructions say to use furring strips and to 'Install water-resistant wallboard over the framing' shows a picture of it overlapping the tub flange.

Is this necessary? Then just bridge the gap with tile. Question 2 years ago on Step Before seeing this instruction, the big-box store guy said I should use "non-shrink grout". I bought a 50 lb bag and was ready to install. Will this work, or is the mud bed mix a better product for tub install.

I am installing a 60" x 42" kohler enclave soaking tub and the manufacturer instructions say to install a mortar bed for support. Question 3 years ago on Step I don't think they bedded in mortar. Is there a way to fix this? Answer 3 years ago. Carefully squirt "GoodStuff" foam under it.

Better still, put the foam in a garbage bag under the tub, so someday someone can remove the tub. I install tubs for a living and you don't use mortar to put it down. You also don't use galvanized screws. Reply 5 years ago. Thanks for your comment, the Kohler instructions for this tub call for either mortar or adhesive under the tub. As such, and to keep the warranty, we choose to use mortar. It's not a huge extra step. Plus the tub simply feels more solid.

It depends on what kind of tub you're installing. I install many different kinds, the sterling acrylic made by kohler requires no mortar as it comes with its own base. I usually use mud on all the fiberglass tubs that I install but hardly ever on these standard ones unless the manufacturer specifies. Overall, a sound instructable! Thanks for sharing. If I have one thing to add, try to find an above the floor rough style.

You can avoid removing the subfloor and it also helps if there's a floor joist in the way. The downside is you lose a little bit of depth inside. Thanks for tip, in this situation we had to remove the subfloor anyway. It was a mess and structurally unsound. We wanted to show those tips as well ;. More by the author:. Everything we do is self taught. Over the last 12 years we've bought and rehabbed several rental homes in Pittsburgh.

Steve then added a stud to the plumbing wall. Our video tutorial shows all the steps for building the main wall and for building a knee wall. Once your framing is in place you can dry fit the tub again and mark the position of the drain. Place the slip nut onto overflow pipe and position the rubber gasket behind it. Did you make this project?



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